Niiiice

This is the last post from France, one day in Nice and Im off to Italy tomorrow, via Monaco, providing I dont put everything on black...

Having cycled out of the hills of the Central Massif I was almost immediately greeted by the hills of the Ardeche. As you may have seen the weather in Southern France has been very bad in recent weeks, areas flooded and campsites evacuated, which gave me the perfect excuse for my first nights hotel luxury in Bagnol sur Ceze. Even had a tv, a foreign object to me these days - and feel better for it.

The weather at the top of the hills in Ardeche as I crossed over the Valley into Le Beage was not cycling friendly. The winds nearly knocked me off a few times, must have been approaching 50 kph headwind at points as it was all I could do to make 8 kph in bottom gear on the flat. A little further on at 1300 metres I was in the clouds with thunder nearby... but bar a few choice expletives aimed at the wind, I got through it pretty relaxed... knowing theres a big descent to look forward to always helps. The views were spectacular although the clouds stopped me from seeing too much.


From Aubanas, headed roughly south east into Marseille. The last 20 km were pretty bleak, a number of industrial complexes and an airport but arrive in Marseille was great as it meant I could see the sea. The Mediterranean was always a milestone, a new sea. Marseille was the first and last large French city I visited, the first cosmopolitan centre, probably France's most cosmopolitan centre with many people from all over the Meditterenean basin, most notably north Africa. I enjoyed the variety - a city boy myself. The town I believe was heavily bombed in WW2, much of the centre is commercial and the Port is surrounded by the usual mix of tack and restaurants. Staying in the hostel had a chance to meet with a few people which was cool, as the previous few weeks of camping in the rain didnt make for much socialising. Took the Marseille metro and rediscovered my enjoyment for public transport - nice to slip into anonymity for a day or so, as opposed to cyclist with his home on a bike that usually causes some funny looks.

From Marseille, I cruised the coastal route to Nice where Im staying now. I had hoped the Cote

D'Azure, which starts east of Toulon would allow for plenty of swimming, but in reality, bar a stretch east of Frejus, the place is pretty tacky really. I guess Im just beyond the summer season now, so maybe the place doesnt have the same buzz.. never been one for beach holidays anyway. Did get some swimming in though, which gave the locals a chance to sample my ludicrous cyclists tan, my knees/ arms and face are bronzed but the rest of me is still UK pasty pale. I was never going to fit into the Cote D'Azure, bearded, scruffy and cap wearing (number 2 after loss of the first), I look like an extra out of the Dukes of Hazzard, add a dirty push bike with clothes hanging off the rear rack drying in the sun and the glitterazzi avoided me like the plague, which suited everyone I think.

Got my first puncture in Frejus, not bad going, the tyres have been good for 1600 miles on this trip and others without a single punture. Occurred on the beach front which made for many helpful strangers, the gesture is appreciated, but prefer to do these things myself...

France ... Ive been surprised how big and diverse a country it is. I have travelled 1050 miles here and feel like Ive sped through. Its a very easy country to cycle, I have even used national routes on the bike on the hard shoulder with no problems. There are always cyclists about, nearly all are clad in full team lycra colours and top spec carbon road bikes - appearing to take it seriously, particularly when overtaken by a scruffy looking hill billy biker with full camping gear (although that doesnt happen too often). I have visited France many times, can speak the language, the only surprise as such was the Massif Central, a beautifully and tranquil region I would recommend for anyone cycling or otherwise. Really looking forward to Italy, although still western European I havent been there before and really feel the trip is moving up a level...

A few stats for those statistically minded.
Distance so far, 1150 miles, 1050 of which in France
Highest Point, 1300m (in Ardeche near the source of the Loire)
Longest day 75 miles
Fastest, 45 mph - shouldnt be proud of this, but it was a very wide empty road and couldnt help myself.

So long, catch up in Italy...