Massive Central

Well since the last post I ve covered the bulk of my french travels... now in Le Puy en Velay in the south eastern part of the Central Massive. The last week or so has gone pretty quickly, travelling through both the Loire and Central Massive regions. Would have been nice to spend more time there, but budget and time haven't allowed for much dwelling in western europe.

After Le Mans, continued south ish into Tours stopping in a small village near Chateau du Loire, all quiet until the local bikers wedding ceremony turfed out with a few dozen superbikes screaming around the village. The piccies are pretty big, apologies if slow to load, I dont yet have the facilities to change the size online ... (if anyone knows how to do that please let me know)




Next onto Tours (left) which looked the part with plenty of bars, but was mostly well off french tourists, my first rest day of the trip was a bit of a dissappointment to be honest. Ever budget wary I kept a low profile... the weather has been so hot, upto 38 degrees according to one pharmacy sign its been difficult to muster much energy after a days cycling.

My route through the Loire valley was not the most picturesque as I was banging down south and not along the valley itself. There were many other cyclists knocking about and Im sure its as beautiful as many say. But throughout I was really looking forward to the Massive Central region which would be the first significant change in geography since leaving London... it didnt dissappoint

The Massive Central. Theres a Volcano park here, although I missed that following the valley of the L'Allier river. You cant escape the climbs however and I completed my first 2 'cols'. The gradients are reasonably gentle but continuous and unrelenting... the kind of effort that after a few hours leaves you questionning your health - why am I going so slow, am I ill, needed more sleep, do I need to drink more water (yes usually). I find singing madeup songs helps, as does reciting lines from Blazzing Saddles or Anchorman, if you can combine the two happy days. I was singing a song about Ron Burgendy's dog Baxter at one point although I dont think its entirally original, cant remember it now sadly.

Descending down into Issoire on Friday, I was down 'on the drops' (the curly part of my handlebars for the non cyclists) with approaching cars shouting encouragement, pumping fists and shouts of "Allez!". Makes a big change from cycling in London where many car drivers view cyclists as tax evading scumbags and leave very little room, if anything is shouted at you its unrepeatable. The French attitude to cyclists is great, the only time I ve had an issue with cars was in the Loire valley and yep, they had british plates and GB stickers, many towing cycling sucking caravans. Its a beautiful country to cycle.

The next day was the first really epic day's cycle, from Issoire to Le Puy en Velay. The longest day so far (75 miles), the highest (1020 metres), the fastest (40 mph). Wasnt intending to arrive here yesteryday, but it seems most rural campsites have closed now at the end of the summer season and I'd rather continue cycling than opt for wild camping... wild, or free camping, in my opinion cant be done until later on when noone can see you sneek onto the golf course and setup camp on the 18nth tee, so I prefer to cycle until near dark and take stock then.

It was getting pretty late and unsure when the hostel reception closed I had left myself an hour to travel the last 24 km into the city, which was pushing things. But ever optimistic, I hoped the days climbing would reward me with a downhill strech all the way into the city and for once yesterday I struck lucky. 20 km of freewheeling, rarely below 25 mph, mostly above 30mph with yet more encouragement from passing cars. One vehicle, packed with family pulled alongside during one of the faster streches with windows open, "Allez! Allez! Allez!", I relucatantly gave them a thumbs up, riding one handed at near 40 mph when I could see grandad leaning out of the car window to give me a pat on the back... it was a nice gesture but the last thing I need was a push, for all I knew he might have wanted a hug so I pulled away a little and gave him a cheeky wink. After the mornings struggle it was a fantastic way to finish the day.

Feeling like a king I fluked my way into the hostel.. very cheap at 10 euros / night including breakfast. I have fairly unregal accomodation however, a windowless room which for a sweaty cycle tourist with panniers stuffed with washing and camping stuff could prove an issue.

Need to get some more maps now, planning to be in Marseille in 3/4 days time which will be a great milestone, my first new sea. From there I plan to follow the coast into northern Italy.. I speak no italian whatsoever, a good time to improve the sketching skills.

Well this post appears to be diary of A to Bs - which is how the last few days have gone... not how intend the entire journey to go but was always the plan for this part of the trip. Stay classy San Diego.